Welcome to my blog! Thoughts, updates, and photos from my 2 years in Peace Corps Guinea.

Friday, July 20, 2012

In the USA!

Hello, readers! ( I can say that because I know both my parents read my blog, so that's at least 2 people)

I am in the US for a short visit home, filled with rapid-fire travel between Pittsburgh, Erie, Dayton, and DC. I'm just enjoying the luxury that is so everyday here and trying to relax.

Over the next few days I'll give you updates on what's happened since...well, essentially since I was tackled by a fou. It's been a tough time, a happy time, a sad time, a relaxing time, a joyful time. Life in the Peace Corps is always quite the grab bag.

Please excuse me while I go drink another glass of milk and eat some more toast with butter. Refrigeration! It's amazing.

At my host sister Bilikhisa's wedding in June

Monday, May 28, 2012

Doing Better

Since being back at site, things have been going quite well. School is basically wrapped up! Unfortunately this computer is impossible to type on, so you'll have to wait a few more weeks for some real updates. Love you all!

Wednesday, May 9, 2012

I love my brain

As of yet, I haven't talked to a counselor in Washington. But I've been spending my time trying to do things to be nice to myself, to feel good, to just let my brain have some space to bounce back.

And it turns out, I really like what my brain decides to do.

*cue scene*

Mary walks into a blessedly cool, tiled floor, bunk-bed occupied room. With no conscious thought, she leaps and twirls and sways and bends in what any ballerina would scoff at. There's no music, not even in her mind. Just moving in a way that feels good. Not thinking about what it looks like, not thinking about how bad her dancing has always been or how none of it really goes together. Not thinking. Just dancing.

Monday, May 7, 2012

A Series of Unfortunate Events

First off: Why am I posting this? This is not an uplifting blog about changing the world. This is about how I'm having a tough time right now. This is not to scare you, future PCV or PCV parent. This is not to have some great moral of the story. It's just what's going on with me, and I need to tell about it. Because my Normal reaction to things is to share with everyone I can. I like to talk things out. So the fact that I haven't wanted to tell people about this means that it really is tough for me. So this is my attempt at a little self-therapy. Tell the world what I'm going through and hope it helps me help myself.

It's been an emotional roller coaster here. I got into Conakry last Thursday night expecting to leave on Saturday. I was planning on working on the Peer Support Network training that we plan to do at G21's (that's the group after me) in-service training in a few weeks. I was sitting outside my director's pool, sipping limeade and eating chocolate chip cookies, when suddenly, out of no where, a man came sprinting around the house, wild-eyed and headed straight towards me. He tackled me to the ground and then refused to let me go, though he wasn't moving or trying to hurt me...he seemed to be using me as a shield against another stranger who had rushed into the scene trying to beat him with a stick. Four Guineans pulled his arms off me and I ran away to sit down. At the moment I was attacked, I felt like he wanted to hurt me.

It was clear the man was a "fou", a street person with mental illness, drug addiction, or both. Fous are found nearly everywhere in Guinea. As we pieced it together, it seems that the man had gone crazy trying to escape being beaten by his "brother" and therefore had broken into the neighbor's property, climbed on the roof, and jumped over the fence and razor-wire into the compound. I was just in his path. There is no system to deal with him, so though he was taken into custody, I suspect there will be no treatment for him. He wasn't targeting me, he wasn't being malevolent. I believe I was just in his way, and he saw that I could shield him from pain.

I was a little bruised, so negligeable damage physically, thankfully. We could have very easily gone into a cement column. Mentally, it's a bit more complicated. While I was oscillating between laughter and tears initially, it wore off quickly into a bizarre moment that didn't seem to have much bearing on how I felt. However, last Sunday, facing going back to site and being around other fous, I discovered that it had effected me more that I expected. I felt fearful and panicky, weak and fragile. I stayed in Conakry a few days longer to stabilize. During this time, I found out that a friend's friend at site had died in a tire accident. Though I didn't know him, his death affected me a lot. It contributed to my fear of senseless bad things happening to me or people I care about.

I went back to site on Tuesday, which basically ruined my entire week of school, since my kids all left Wednesday early, thinking I was still gone. Things were pretty dandy all week. Ran into my familiar fous, felt fine. Had some nervous moments, felt significant fear of things like cars accidentally hitting me or bad things happening to my family, but figured it was just some paranoia.

Friday was my birthday! Hurrah! Went to a nearby city and had a great meal at a morroccan place. The owner gave me a real cake! And a necklace and earrings! And we had beer on tap and even a shot of rum. Quite the celebration. Back at my site, my family made a big meal for me and we all ate and I gave a speech and there was a bit of music and dancing. It was a great day.

Saturday I was having stomach issues (not a rare moment, especially considering the sour-tasting ice cream i ate from a street vendor) so I stayed inside all day.

Sunday I spent leisurely listening to the BBC, drinking coffee, doing cross-stitch. Then I needed to head out to go get lunch at the market. La dee da, regular stuff. But as I walked to the market, I started feeling overly emotional and sensitive to things. Thinking about my parents, hoping they can be around my kids when I settle down. Thinking about my neices. Worrying that by a fluke my friend might have been in the karaoke club in Korea that burned down. I was like "Keep it together, Mary. Just get your shopping done." Then, on my way to the market, a young man passing me offered up both hands for a handshake--a friendly move. However, he was dressed all in black and the movement was sudden and startled me. I flinched, apologized profusely, and found myself on the verge of tears. Keeping it together got a little harder.

I walked back fast, trying to avoid the endless greetings that happen on every walk. I envisioned myself in a field of flowers in Switzerland. I started counting steps. I started trying to generate random numbers. I kept it together and drew close to my house. I stopped to greet my host dad and brother, who were setting up electricity poles (whhhaaaaat? irrelevent detail). And my host dad said "Did you hear about the accident this morning? Five people..." "Five people died?" I asked, hoping that this worst-case scenario would get a no as an answer. Instead, he said "Yes, all dead." Strangely, my reaction was to say "I'm fine" in English, then run away, through the garden in front of my house, leaping over plants and holes and arriving, hyperventilating, at my front door. I honestly couldn't remember how it opened. Somehow I managed to get inside and succumbed to what I can only describe as a panic attack. After I started breathing normally again, thanks to another volunteer on the phone, I called our doctor and he sent me a car to bring me in to the capital (again...)

So here I am, back in the capital, waiting to talk to a counselor from Washington. I still feel what the internet tells me is anxiety--fear that bad things will happen. The bad part is that, well, bad things do happen in Guinea. Car accidents are common. Child mortality is not negligeable. Unexpected fous can emerge over a wall (see? humor! Dealing! Wooo!). Dealing with death is part of life in Guinea. Before I was attacked, I had come up with a philosophy for facing it. I could, you know, see it in the Circle of Life. But right now my brain feels a lot like a snowglobe, with lots of disembodied thoughts floating around, and it's going to take some time to settle down. The challenge now is being nice to myself while I'm out of sorts, dealing with mental issues in a country with no understanding of psychology, and finishing the school year.

TL;DR: I got tackled by a crazy man running from a beating and am now experiencing significant anxiety.

Silver linings: It will be a funny story sometime in the future. I've gotten lots more internet than planned. I was around to support a friend when she found out her friend died. I had potatoes au gratin today.

Tuesday, April 24, 2012

What you don't have

I spend a lot of time thinking about things I miss from the States(turkey sandwiches) , or things that Guinea just messes up (public works), or things about the culture that irritate me (foté), but really, Guinea has some things you almost definitely don't have. There is beauty and joy and light and goodness here too.

  1. Starlight : I can see the outline of the palm tree outside my house by the light of the big dipper. I can see the milky way. Walking out of a video club, I am struck by the light from the moonless sky. When's the last time you saw light from the night sky that wasnt light pollution or the moon?
  2. Dancing in the market...no, everywhere : Imagine if everyone in the produce aisle started to break it down around you. Would you join in? That's my market. It is appropriate to dance everywhere, even without music.
  3. An appreciation of fatness : They tell me I'm fat, but with such smiles that it's hard to get mad. Fat means you eat enough. Fat means you live well.
  4. Meals that cost 75 cents and drinks that cost 37 cents. I can eat a delicious filling meal of peanut sauce and rice with a Coke for 1.12. What can you buy for a dollar?
  5. "Recycling" : Kids playing with what we'd call trash, plastic bottles refilled with oil or juice, strainers made from tin cans. There may be no trash system here, but things aren't thrown out as easily either.
  6. Greetings : Everyone says hi to everyone else, every time they see them. It feels friendly.
  7. Fresh Mangoes : I mean just fell off the tree fresh.
  8. Preciousness : People and things are dearer here. People die surprisingly and for unknown reasons. Quality goods cost significant, hard-earned money. For me, I appreciate the things I brought with me. How could i replace my solar charger? What would I do if my ipod broke? (On that note, I took apart my broken kindle and it was awesome! want to know more about e ink, was it microfluidics, what?)
  9. Multilingualism : From a young age, people speak multiple languages because of the mixes of ethnic groups found here. In the US, you'd have some irritating person saying "learn english" but cultural heritage is important here, as is communicating. So I'm learning Pulaar and Susu, though at different levels.

Friday, April 20, 2012

Things you get used to (or don't)

  1. Dirt : I never realized how dirty I could get in the course of a day. My feet are the worst, but then there's my elbow crease and sometimes i itch and discover black fingernails. I "shower" twice a day! Nothing makes it clearer about the amount of dirt I live with than when I wash my hands and face in Conakry and the water runs brown into the white sink. Hmm...
  2. Cockroaches and Spiders: Gone is the girl who used to refuse to shower if there was a spider the size of a dustball. Gone is the girl who jumped on her bed in fright at the cockroach in the dorm room. This girl lives with behemoth spiders in her toilet. This girl puts off killing spiders unless they are larger than 2.5 inches and with fat legs. This girl only kills cockroaches that leave the bathroom. They keep to their business, I keep to mine.
  3. Mice: i just throw things at them but let them be. The poison was a hassle and didnt work.
  4. Cramped quarters : Contortions in a taxi? Appendages numb watching a soccer match? All par for the course.
  5. Entrusting your life to others : In taxis, in the market, in getting around Conakry, in getting water. There's no choice. You ask for help and pray for goodness and, incredibly, you find it. I have been helped so often here by people with no stake in my future. 
Things you don't get used to (but i think thats ok)
  1. The Heat : You just exist in it. Admit that it has you beaten. 
  2. Being a different color : As fluent as I get in Susu, with my hair braided and my pagne tied right, I will always be Other. It's a good perspective to gain when you've been the group of privilige your whole life. (still am, but im in a minority position at least)
  3. Some cultural expectations : No, I don't want to marry you. No, I don't care that i didn't use a ruler to draw the lines, please look at what I drew! No, I do not think it is OK to charge me a different price because I'm white.
  4. Genders in French : I do not CARE if it is le or la. ITS JUST A THING!
  5. Kids crying : For no reason or for good reason, I can't stand to hear kids crying. And there are a lot of kids here and they cry fairly often. Evolutionary behavior, I suppose, for me to hate it.

First, a small request

If you know of any French language high schools that might be interested in pairing with a guinean high school and help us open a library, please comment or message me. Thank you!