Welcome to my blog! Thoughts, updates, and photos from my 2 years in Peace Corps Guinea.

Saturday, December 1, 2012

The lessons you learn

Coming into Peace Corps, I thought a lot about the lessons I would teach. Velocity! Optics! Wash your hands! Always use condoms! Don't cheat!

When I came to Guinea, I realized, as I knew I would, that teaching was just the background noise to my own personal learning experience. It's just that the lessons I have learned are not the lessons I expected to learn. I've learned:

  • That life is precious. Oh, so precious.
  • That in America, we build a wall between ourselves and death. Or we think we do, and that's just a facade. But living and knowing that death is always there, always intrinsically bound to life, is not easy.
  • That I fight back.
  • That this too shall pass. For better or worse, life will change.
  • That my trash is a Guinean child's toy.
  • Food is nourishment. It should not be wasted.
  • That people can be there for you, even when you go weeks without communicating.
  • That being called out for being different is hard to stomach day after day after day.
  • That laughter can unite us all.
  • Especially when you're laughing at yourself.
  • That Guinean hospitality means opening yourself up to give too much. And that emotionally, I do that. But when it comes to chocolate? Oh hell, no.
  • Just keep chipping away at things and they will eventually come to pass.
  • That I am whole unto myself. Or I can be, sometime, when I self-actualize.
  • That it's OK to just be on the path, and not have reached the destination yet.
  • That nothing can be taken for granted--my health, running water, basic math skills.
Everyday brings lessons, but I have to say, I didn't anticipate having to learn from being attacked by a crazy person, an extended med hold in the US for stomach troubles, or burying an adorable kitten. Peace Corps kinda takes all the ups and downs of a regular life and shoves them all together into two years so every day, much less every year is a rollercoaster of challenges and overcoming those challenges. Boy, I am tired out today. If you didn't hear, the kitten I was taking care of died this morning on my way to Conakry. She was sick, but I am very sad.

Double Rainbow--double hope?

Sunday, November 11, 2012

A New School Year

I know it's been forever and a day since I posted. I've been busy and occasionally sick and just not able to think about blogposts!

But I figure most of you are curious about what I'm up to at site, now that the school year started in October. We actually got off to a pretty fast start. Kids started showing up on the 8th, when it was supposed to start the 4th. And I gave my first real class the 15th and we've been rolling since then! All of the consistent teachers from last year are back, although the other English teacher has been mostly MIA as well as my counterpart (the economics teacher) until November. So I've had a lot of my students from last year and the new 11e kids asking for English classes, and I've had to refuse them.

I am teaching the two "senior" classes, also known as Terminale. I have a social sciences class and an experimental science class. I teach SS English, which is a subject they have to pass on the BAC, their national exam, at the end of the year. I teach SE (sciences experimentales) Physics and English. They have to pass the BAC in Physics, but not in English, so we just have fun in English class.

The two classes couldn't be more different. SE has sixteen kids signed up, and 14 of them show up on a regular basis. When I had review class in the evening on the first week of school, ten of them showed up. Can you imagine American kids doing that? They are curious and hardworking. They like learning English, even though they have so much work to do for their BAC preparation. And they have, well, WE have a LOT of work to do. These kids are supposed to be able to understand vector accelerations based on the derivatives of position and then velocity vectors. They don't even understand what we're drawing when we draw vectors. They still mess up multiplication by zero. They mix up plus signs and multiplication signs in the pythagorean theorem. They can quote me a beautiful definition of angular velocity, but they don't understand what a radian is or how to convert to it. It makes me so angry, because these are smart, interested kids, and they want to learn soooo much, but considering the atrocious mathematical education they've had and the lack of teachers over the years, it's unsurprising that they struggle. These kids are also going to have to take a test in Biology, when there hasn't been a Bio teacher at their school since they were in 11th grade, two years ago. Sometimes I get mad and I have to explain that I'm not mad that they don't know what tangent means, I'm mad at their education system, which fails them and then demands so much of them at the end of their schooling. Last year's physics BAC was mostly a question about interferences fringes created by the young's slit experience. If any of you know what that is and the formulas involved, you took physics in university. And they are just high schoolers! In a developing world country!

*deep breath*

The other class has over 50 registered students, and about 40 of them show up physically, and about 10 of them show up mentally. Passing the SS test is supposedly much easier, since it's essays and some history memorization, but no math or science. So this is where the people who aren't really sure why they are in high school go. Which is unfortunate for the people who really want to go into a social science field like journalism or business or politics. They get pulled down by all these slackers. The students don't listen to me, they don't seem to care about English, and they simply don't respect me. It's frustrating for all sorts of reasons that are different than my SE class. Nonetheless, I feel really bad for the motivated kids in my class, and I'm going to see what I can do to make sure that those kids pass their BAC.

I'm also officially teaching 11e SE in English, although I picked it up last week and then fell unfortunately ill. I'm now better and heading back to site! Apologies on the lack of picture in this post!

Tuesday, September 4, 2012

Guess who's back?

MEEEEE!

Back in Conakry, working on some physics resources for high school teachers before heading back to site tomorrow.

I do not, as yet, have any answers for you. I tried to get riz gras today and they had run out--so no rice and sauce yet!

Thursday, August 30, 2012

I'm a terrible blogger

The truth is, all the time when I'm in Guinea I think of things to tell you guys about. A post on the role of women, or funny things kids say, or language learning, Guinean music, or cooking or... or... or....

But then I came back to the US, and I have all my pictures at my disposal and all my time to use to blog--and I couldn't think of anything good enough to talk about. I hope you guys enjoyed my house tour, which I filmed in February and have been trying to post. At least something good came from my being in America!

Tomorrow I head back, breaking what seems to be a bit of a curse. We've had 3 volunteers recently medically separated/decide not to return for medical reasons, and ALL of their names start with Ma--. I'm pretty excited to be heading back, especially now that I have a flight that gets in at a reasonable time. Peace Corps tried to book me a flight that got into Conakry at 2am. I mean, I love Guinea and I feel safe in my town, but we're talking about a city where a) I've been attacked by a crazy man b) the political situation is explosive and c) there are police checkpoints after midnight. Luckily, Peace Corps Guinea immediately rectified Peace Corps Washington's small oversight. Win.

My apologies on my failures to post. At least this time when I go back to Guinea, I'll have a working battery in my computer and can type up posts when I think of them!

Five big questions I need answered:
1) Have the mice taken over my house?
2) Has the dust taken over my belongings?
3) Will I have enough time to prepare for school starting in October?
4) What will my community say when I come back?
5) When can I get some rice and sauce?

You'll have to tune in later to find out! (predicting an update mid-September!) But for now I'll leave you with this:


Monday, August 6, 2012

After the Fou

My "being tackled by a crazy man" experience has sparked some interesting reactions:

For me:
  • Anxiety around Guinean indigent men
  • Anxiety in cars
  • Started practicing yoga daily (until I came back to the US and felt lazy/ill)
For the US government (not an official statement, of course) :
  • The Embassy did a security evaluation of our compounds. Conclusion: They are not very secure. The surrounding houses would enable similar crazy people and need to be fixed. (Hopefully will be done soon)
  • The CD and her husband: we were all shell-shocked together, but they were great. They took me to get a pedicure to relax, they brought me with them to a dinner after I had my panic attack, and they still check up on me to see how my mental state is.
For other volunteers, mostly from a text alerting them to the situation which said "Mary got taken down by a fou":
  • "Mary,  what the heck?" and other, more expletive filled versions of texts to me
  • A lot of curiosity by G21, which meant I got to dramatically retell my story at their IST. And then they had no questions. Whatevs, I like retelling the story. It takes a step towards being funny every time it's just a story and not the most terrifying memory I have. 
  • A beer-pong team named in my honor "Mary got taken down" (Beer pong, practiced in moderation by consenting adults, is not an evil activity.)
For the incoming trainees, possibly reading my blog while still in the US:
  • What the hell did we get ourselves into??? (pure speculation)
But check it out! I can touch my toes now, thanks to the yoga!


An Extended Vacation

So I know that I promised I would update my blog alll the time since I'm in the US of A, and then I failed you! I am so, so sorry. I know it ruined your day.

So why? Why, Mary, did you leave us to face the world without blog posts? Well, dedicated reader, I have been ill. Alas. Again.

My trip in the US has been awesome, and for the scheduled time I was just too stubborn to let my stomach troubles bother me, although I did go to the doctor. After four days, the doctor said I had shigellosis. Aka bacterial dysentery. Fun, but didn't fit my symptoms. However, the culture grew, so I guess that was just the cherry on top.

So I'm in Atlanta and last week I saw an Infectious Disease doctor. Some of you may know this is my second infectious disease doc. I think they are my favorite species of doctor. This is only partly attributed to the fact that my first infectious disease doc, Dr. Alter, saved my life. With some help from my mom on the ice-packing extravaganza. But that's another story.

The real reason I like my ID doc is that he's friendly, knowledgeable, and immediately recognized what I had: giardia. Blech. So now I'm being treated for that too. I also had an ultrasound of my insides and blood tests, which will hopefully say that all is almost well so I can go back and do the rest of my service. However, this weekend has been up there in the sickest times of my life, and I have to wonder why my insides feel like someone took a food processor to them and occasionally jabs them with a steak knife.

I managed to have fun with these guys and my parents!

Friday, July 20, 2012

In the USA!

Hello, readers! ( I can say that because I know both my parents read my blog, so that's at least 2 people)

I am in the US for a short visit home, filled with rapid-fire travel between Pittsburgh, Erie, Dayton, and DC. I'm just enjoying the luxury that is so everyday here and trying to relax.

Over the next few days I'll give you updates on what's happened since...well, essentially since I was tackled by a fou. It's been a tough time, a happy time, a sad time, a relaxing time, a joyful time. Life in the Peace Corps is always quite the grab bag.

Please excuse me while I go drink another glass of milk and eat some more toast with butter. Refrigeration! It's amazing.

At my host sister Bilikhisa's wedding in June

Monday, May 28, 2012

Doing Better

Since being back at site, things have been going quite well. School is basically wrapped up! Unfortunately this computer is impossible to type on, so you'll have to wait a few more weeks for some real updates. Love you all!

Wednesday, May 9, 2012

I love my brain

As of yet, I haven't talked to a counselor in Washington. But I've been spending my time trying to do things to be nice to myself, to feel good, to just let my brain have some space to bounce back.

And it turns out, I really like what my brain decides to do.

*cue scene*

Mary walks into a blessedly cool, tiled floor, bunk-bed occupied room. With no conscious thought, she leaps and twirls and sways and bends in what any ballerina would scoff at. There's no music, not even in her mind. Just moving in a way that feels good. Not thinking about what it looks like, not thinking about how bad her dancing has always been or how none of it really goes together. Not thinking. Just dancing.

Monday, May 7, 2012

A Series of Unfortunate Events

First off: Why am I posting this? This is not an uplifting blog about changing the world. This is about how I'm having a tough time right now. This is not to scare you, future PCV or PCV parent. This is not to have some great moral of the story. It's just what's going on with me, and I need to tell about it. Because my Normal reaction to things is to share with everyone I can. I like to talk things out. So the fact that I haven't wanted to tell people about this means that it really is tough for me. So this is my attempt at a little self-therapy. Tell the world what I'm going through and hope it helps me help myself.

It's been an emotional roller coaster here. I got into Conakry last Thursday night expecting to leave on Saturday. I was planning on working on the Peer Support Network training that we plan to do at G21's (that's the group after me) in-service training in a few weeks. I was sitting outside my director's pool, sipping limeade and eating chocolate chip cookies, when suddenly, out of no where, a man came sprinting around the house, wild-eyed and headed straight towards me. He tackled me to the ground and then refused to let me go, though he wasn't moving or trying to hurt me...he seemed to be using me as a shield against another stranger who had rushed into the scene trying to beat him with a stick. Four Guineans pulled his arms off me and I ran away to sit down. At the moment I was attacked, I felt like he wanted to hurt me.

It was clear the man was a "fou", a street person with mental illness, drug addiction, or both. Fous are found nearly everywhere in Guinea. As we pieced it together, it seems that the man had gone crazy trying to escape being beaten by his "brother" and therefore had broken into the neighbor's property, climbed on the roof, and jumped over the fence and razor-wire into the compound. I was just in his path. There is no system to deal with him, so though he was taken into custody, I suspect there will be no treatment for him. He wasn't targeting me, he wasn't being malevolent. I believe I was just in his way, and he saw that I could shield him from pain.

I was a little bruised, so negligeable damage physically, thankfully. We could have very easily gone into a cement column. Mentally, it's a bit more complicated. While I was oscillating between laughter and tears initially, it wore off quickly into a bizarre moment that didn't seem to have much bearing on how I felt. However, last Sunday, facing going back to site and being around other fous, I discovered that it had effected me more that I expected. I felt fearful and panicky, weak and fragile. I stayed in Conakry a few days longer to stabilize. During this time, I found out that a friend's friend at site had died in a tire accident. Though I didn't know him, his death affected me a lot. It contributed to my fear of senseless bad things happening to me or people I care about.

I went back to site on Tuesday, which basically ruined my entire week of school, since my kids all left Wednesday early, thinking I was still gone. Things were pretty dandy all week. Ran into my familiar fous, felt fine. Had some nervous moments, felt significant fear of things like cars accidentally hitting me or bad things happening to my family, but figured it was just some paranoia.

Friday was my birthday! Hurrah! Went to a nearby city and had a great meal at a morroccan place. The owner gave me a real cake! And a necklace and earrings! And we had beer on tap and even a shot of rum. Quite the celebration. Back at my site, my family made a big meal for me and we all ate and I gave a speech and there was a bit of music and dancing. It was a great day.

Saturday I was having stomach issues (not a rare moment, especially considering the sour-tasting ice cream i ate from a street vendor) so I stayed inside all day.

Sunday I spent leisurely listening to the BBC, drinking coffee, doing cross-stitch. Then I needed to head out to go get lunch at the market. La dee da, regular stuff. But as I walked to the market, I started feeling overly emotional and sensitive to things. Thinking about my parents, hoping they can be around my kids when I settle down. Thinking about my neices. Worrying that by a fluke my friend might have been in the karaoke club in Korea that burned down. I was like "Keep it together, Mary. Just get your shopping done." Then, on my way to the market, a young man passing me offered up both hands for a handshake--a friendly move. However, he was dressed all in black and the movement was sudden and startled me. I flinched, apologized profusely, and found myself on the verge of tears. Keeping it together got a little harder.

I walked back fast, trying to avoid the endless greetings that happen on every walk. I envisioned myself in a field of flowers in Switzerland. I started counting steps. I started trying to generate random numbers. I kept it together and drew close to my house. I stopped to greet my host dad and brother, who were setting up electricity poles (whhhaaaaat? irrelevent detail). And my host dad said "Did you hear about the accident this morning? Five people..." "Five people died?" I asked, hoping that this worst-case scenario would get a no as an answer. Instead, he said "Yes, all dead." Strangely, my reaction was to say "I'm fine" in English, then run away, through the garden in front of my house, leaping over plants and holes and arriving, hyperventilating, at my front door. I honestly couldn't remember how it opened. Somehow I managed to get inside and succumbed to what I can only describe as a panic attack. After I started breathing normally again, thanks to another volunteer on the phone, I called our doctor and he sent me a car to bring me in to the capital (again...)

So here I am, back in the capital, waiting to talk to a counselor from Washington. I still feel what the internet tells me is anxiety--fear that bad things will happen. The bad part is that, well, bad things do happen in Guinea. Car accidents are common. Child mortality is not negligeable. Unexpected fous can emerge over a wall (see? humor! Dealing! Wooo!). Dealing with death is part of life in Guinea. Before I was attacked, I had come up with a philosophy for facing it. I could, you know, see it in the Circle of Life. But right now my brain feels a lot like a snowglobe, with lots of disembodied thoughts floating around, and it's going to take some time to settle down. The challenge now is being nice to myself while I'm out of sorts, dealing with mental issues in a country with no understanding of psychology, and finishing the school year.

TL;DR: I got tackled by a crazy man running from a beating and am now experiencing significant anxiety.

Silver linings: It will be a funny story sometime in the future. I've gotten lots more internet than planned. I was around to support a friend when she found out her friend died. I had potatoes au gratin today.

Tuesday, April 24, 2012

What you don't have

I spend a lot of time thinking about things I miss from the States(turkey sandwiches) , or things that Guinea just messes up (public works), or things about the culture that irritate me (foté), but really, Guinea has some things you almost definitely don't have. There is beauty and joy and light and goodness here too.

  1. Starlight : I can see the outline of the palm tree outside my house by the light of the big dipper. I can see the milky way. Walking out of a video club, I am struck by the light from the moonless sky. When's the last time you saw light from the night sky that wasnt light pollution or the moon?
  2. Dancing in the market...no, everywhere : Imagine if everyone in the produce aisle started to break it down around you. Would you join in? That's my market. It is appropriate to dance everywhere, even without music.
  3. An appreciation of fatness : They tell me I'm fat, but with such smiles that it's hard to get mad. Fat means you eat enough. Fat means you live well.
  4. Meals that cost 75 cents and drinks that cost 37 cents. I can eat a delicious filling meal of peanut sauce and rice with a Coke for 1.12. What can you buy for a dollar?
  5. "Recycling" : Kids playing with what we'd call trash, plastic bottles refilled with oil or juice, strainers made from tin cans. There may be no trash system here, but things aren't thrown out as easily either.
  6. Greetings : Everyone says hi to everyone else, every time they see them. It feels friendly.
  7. Fresh Mangoes : I mean just fell off the tree fresh.
  8. Preciousness : People and things are dearer here. People die surprisingly and for unknown reasons. Quality goods cost significant, hard-earned money. For me, I appreciate the things I brought with me. How could i replace my solar charger? What would I do if my ipod broke? (On that note, I took apart my broken kindle and it was awesome! want to know more about e ink, was it microfluidics, what?)
  9. Multilingualism : From a young age, people speak multiple languages because of the mixes of ethnic groups found here. In the US, you'd have some irritating person saying "learn english" but cultural heritage is important here, as is communicating. So I'm learning Pulaar and Susu, though at different levels.

Friday, April 20, 2012

Things you get used to (or don't)

  1. Dirt : I never realized how dirty I could get in the course of a day. My feet are the worst, but then there's my elbow crease and sometimes i itch and discover black fingernails. I "shower" twice a day! Nothing makes it clearer about the amount of dirt I live with than when I wash my hands and face in Conakry and the water runs brown into the white sink. Hmm...
  2. Cockroaches and Spiders: Gone is the girl who used to refuse to shower if there was a spider the size of a dustball. Gone is the girl who jumped on her bed in fright at the cockroach in the dorm room. This girl lives with behemoth spiders in her toilet. This girl puts off killing spiders unless they are larger than 2.5 inches and with fat legs. This girl only kills cockroaches that leave the bathroom. They keep to their business, I keep to mine.
  3. Mice: i just throw things at them but let them be. The poison was a hassle and didnt work.
  4. Cramped quarters : Contortions in a taxi? Appendages numb watching a soccer match? All par for the course.
  5. Entrusting your life to others : In taxis, in the market, in getting around Conakry, in getting water. There's no choice. You ask for help and pray for goodness and, incredibly, you find it. I have been helped so often here by people with no stake in my future. 
Things you don't get used to (but i think thats ok)
  1. The Heat : You just exist in it. Admit that it has you beaten. 
  2. Being a different color : As fluent as I get in Susu, with my hair braided and my pagne tied right, I will always be Other. It's a good perspective to gain when you've been the group of privilige your whole life. (still am, but im in a minority position at least)
  3. Some cultural expectations : No, I don't want to marry you. No, I don't care that i didn't use a ruler to draw the lines, please look at what I drew! No, I do not think it is OK to charge me a different price because I'm white.
  4. Genders in French : I do not CARE if it is le or la. ITS JUST A THING!
  5. Kids crying : For no reason or for good reason, I can't stand to hear kids crying. And there are a lot of kids here and they cry fairly often. Evolutionary behavior, I suppose, for me to hate it.

First, a small request

If you know of any French language high schools that might be interested in pairing with a guinean high school and help us open a library, please comment or message me. Thank you!

Saturday, March 17, 2012

Slac

Slac is the unique nickname of my very unique, very awesome host brother. He and the Neighbor Teacher are my best friends in village, and I don't know what I would do without them. Slac has helped me buy a phone, get transport, kill spiders, fix blocked showers, learn susu, and have guinean social skills. He is basically the source of all of my social adventures because he knows EVERYONE. He is the older brother I never had. Let's tell some stories about Slac.

Slac works at a nightclub and is a DJ/jack of all trades, so whenever there are events at the nightclub we get in for free. He's been studying arts administration at a nearby university, so the nightclub experience is his "internship" per se.What he really wants to do is be a sports journalist, but in Guinea your university major is decided by the state taking into consideration your grades. But he tells me that most journalists didn't major in journalism either, so he's still aiming to do that as a career.

This is a good example of his vision for the future which I see so rarely in other Guineans. Another example is the fields he has bought and farmed since 2004. We walked out to see the cashew trees, peanuts, manioc, and cotton trees on his plots. His land, and that of his uncle (my host dad) is the only green in a sea of burnt black fields of stones and stumps. Their land has cut plants lying around to increase the soil quality. The other land seems to be mostly sand. When I asked him why he started buying land, he told me that he knew that our town would be growing and that land was going to be more valuable in the future. Talk about an investment in the future!

Slac and I have talked about everything from Guinean corruption to Martin Luther King to the role of women in Islam to family structure to....the list goes on. It is incredible to find someone as well-educated and engaged as my brother who is also nice enough to take care of me. Our discussions reveal him to be a compassionate, moral, humorous person. We spend a lot of time laughing, between my Susu, his english, and my "spoiled baby" status.

On Tuesday, Slac's mom passed away. I've never met her because she lives in a village far away, and I guess she's been sick for a while, but it has been a difficult time for my friend. Guineans do not show a lot of emotion, but I can tell that his is saddened by his loss by the way he zones out when we're sitting outside, by how red his eyes were when he came back from the burial, and by the comments he makes about his mother. Apparently she was a pretty incredible individual, well-known and well-respected in her community. It's been hard to watch him grieve and not be able to provide the sort of support I would like to give, and would know how to give in the American context.

Grief is different here. Immediately after someone passes away, they grieve intensely. Women come over to comfort each other and wail, pouring their pain into eerie sounds. They bring out cool water to wash away the tears and steal the redness from their eyes. The next day is the burial, and a week later there is a sacrifice, but life resumes its normal pace very quickly. Death is a much larger facet in life here, so I suppose they must move forward more than we do.

Saturday, February 18, 2012

Slices of Life

Yesterday
Sitting on my porch at sunset, writing in my journal, the horde of children approaches. One of them pulls out a change purse, seriously hands me a red cough drop wrapper and says "Cobiri! Cobiri!" (money!money!) We then proceed to have a ten minute bad susu conversation about what the money is for and if its mine now. it is now mine; I have become wealthy! Suddenly all the kids want to give me money, and i'm sitting with a pile of used candy wrappers. Thanks guys. I went and got them lifesavers, of which the mint flavor was least popular, btw, and then told them I needed them to keep my money for me. What was I going to do, sit on it to keep it safe? Since, of course, I dont actually speak Susu, this was done by gesturing. Finally the children took their money back! so I'm back to being poor. Ah well.

a week ago
My eleventh grade science kids always whine if they have to stay past 12 qnd definitely after 1. In some ways I cant blame them, I know they are hungry. Solution? To teach them fractions, I bought a bunch of clementines and 5 loaves of bread. we demonstrated how the pieces made a whole, half, third etc. then we did fraction addition and subtraction with the bread. And then I taught them physics and told them to stop whining, they couldnt be hungry. Total cost, two dollars.

Every day
 I am the queen of fist bumps, known as beeg ups. I give them on the way to and from school, at the market, and occasionally on the way back from the well. I go to the well now! At least three times now!

Last Wednesday
Basket head should be my new name. I got my hair braided into one continuous braid from my hairline in. It looks and feels like a basket, but its my favorite "tresses" so far. My hair is totally out of my way and its significantly less itchy. However, braiding is just not good for white hair, so I think I'm gonna need a trim after I take this out. Goal of one week to keep it in. It's also nice for runs for keeping my hair out of my face. Maybe I'll run a marathon in the US like this. Another upside is that I now know what I look like bald and I think I have a pretty nice head shape. Ah, self discovery.

Yesterday
My supervisor came to check out my site, see how I am, and watch me teach. All went well, and he actually was very supportive of my teaching math, which along with english and physics is now my third subject to teach. We talked to my provisor and went over my role, blah blah. Then my provisor aka the principal said, "Mary is always working. She does what she can to telp out and we really appreciate her. Now that she is here, she has given me hope. I have hope now."

It's a good life here.

Sunday, February 5, 2012

Story: Fote gets water from the well

Since the well in my courtyard dried up in...November? I've been paying two younger boys in my compound to fill my water at the well. Recently, my neighbor lady showed me where the further well is, and I've been meaning to try to do it myself, but using only the 10L bidon, not the 20L bidon. Only girls under 10 carry the 10L, everyone else uses the 20, but as I'm not accustomed to carrying anything on my head, much less 20 liters of water, I'm sticking with the tiny bidon.

So one day last week, I decided to go to the well. As I walked through the compound across the street, I collected a parade of small children all shouting that Mari Fofana was going to fetch water!!!!! eventually one of the older boys, Alpha, told them to go away, but he and his friend decided to accompany me, which was good because I had forgotten the paths. Through our Susu/French mix, Alpha told me that the well I was planning on going to was no longer good for drinking, so I should go to a different, further well. So we hiked about five minutes further through a grassy field covered in pits which I can only assume were used as wells once, but don't understand, as they were only about 3 feet deep. Finally we arrived at the well, guarded over by an old woman with a stick, who started yelling "Cobiri" at me, which means money. Money? Last time I went I didn't have to pay? I didn't bring any money with me, and I sure didn't feel like hiking back and forth to my house again! So I searched in my pocket and found a Pep-o-mint, which another PCV gave me from her care package. Since the woman was only asking for 100 francs, a denomination which barely exists, and candies here cost 500, I figured she was getting a good deal. She looked skeptical, opened the candy immediately and popped it in her mouth, and finally indicated that I could get my water. By this point, the professionals were lining up behind me. And by professionals, I mean girls between the ages of 8 and 19, who had buckets, large bidons, and small bidons. So I had quite the audience as I stuck the water-lifting bidon the 6 or so feet down into the well and pulled up two loads of water to fill my little bidon. Then I stuck my wet bandana, which had served as a filter while I poured in the water, onto my head as a bit of a cushion, stuck the bidon on my head, and started back, led again by Alpha and his friend. Alpha kept gesturing at me to give him the bidon, but I refused and just laughed at him, trying to say in susu that I can do it myself and let me carry it. We finally got back to the neighboring compound, where the parade of children was having an impromptu drumming party, which was interrupted to cheer for me and my success. Any of those kids over the age of 5 was totally capable of doing what I had just done, but they sure made me feel like I had done something great!

Saturday, January 28, 2012

Take a Guinea Day

Don’t use any electricity, other than to charge your phone, and then pay a dollar to do that.
Measure how much water you use. Even better, measure out 20 liters of water in buckets and use that for everything. If doing laundry, add 20 more liters, but do it by hand. Even better, but it in buckets and carry it up and down stairs at least once.
If you’re a girl, wear a long skirt. If you’re a guy, wear business pants and shoes but your brightest button-up. Girls, it doesn’t really matter what you wear on top as long as its clean.
Say Hello to 80% of everyone you see. Even better, ask how they are and how they slept.
For breakfast, drink Nescafe coffee. Use powdered creamer. You can have real sugar, don’t worry.  You can have baguette with laughing cow or Nutella. Or oatmeal, but no milk there either.
For lunch, eat something with rice involved, preferable with fish and spiciness. If you’re me, you eat scrambled eggs instead. Or a baguette and refried beans.
In the evening, break out flashlights and find family or friends to chat with until 8 or so. If none is available, call friends just to say hi and how are you. Don’t make it a long phone call, you don’t have enough minutes for that.
Sleep under a mosquito net. As a replacement, give yourself some other sort of obstacle course to get in bed. Once in bed, listen to a radio, read by flashlight, or listen to your ipod.
Let me know how it goes!